How to Rescreen Your Pool Enclosure Like a Pro: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Why Rescreen Your Pool Enclosure?

Rescreening replaces old, torn, or faded screens with new ones, secured by rubber splines in the enclosure’s aluminum frame. It’s needed every 8–12 years and offers:

• Pest Protection: Blocks mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and other bugs.

• Storm Readiness: Taut screens withstand hurricane winds (140–150 mph).

• Aesthetic Refresh: New screens enhance your patio’s coastal vibe.

• Cost Savings: DIY rescreening costs $500–$1,500 versus $5,000–$20,000 for a new enclosure.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gather these essentials from hardware stores or online:

• Screen Roller: For pressing splines into grooves ($10–$20).

• Utility Knife: For precise screen and spline cuts ($5–$15).

• Flathead Screwdriver: To remove old splines ($3–$10).

• Measuring Tape: For accurate panel measurements ($5–$15).

• Scissors: For trimming screen material ($5–$10).

• Work Gloves: To protect hands ($5–$15).

• Walkboard: 2”x10” plank for roof access ($20–$50).

• Two Ladders: 6–8 ft for walkboard setup, one extra for solo wall work ($50–$150 each).

• Fiberglass Screen: Phifer 18x14 (8–10 years), 20x20 No-See-Um (8–10 years), or Pet Screen (10–21 years) ($0.50–$2 per square foot).

• Spline: Dura-Spline 0.160”–0.200” to match frame grooves ($0.10–$0.20 per foot).

• Simple Green Cleaner: Eco-friendly for frames ($8–$12).

Step-by-Step Rescreening Guide

Follow these steps to rescreen your pool enclosure’s roof and walls with professional precision:

Preparation Clear the patio, removing furniture or decor. Lay a tarp to collect debris. Wear gloves for safety. Set up a walkboard for roof work: place two 6–8 ft ladders at opposite ends of the pool, securing a 2”x10” plank across them. Ensure ladders are stable on flat ground. For solo wall work, keep one ladder for mobility. Use a separate ladder to access the walkboard safely, avoiding tipping.

Inspect and Clean the Frame Check the aluminum frame for corrosion or loose Tapcon fasteners. Tighten screws with a screwdriver or replace rusted ones using an electric hammer drill with a 3/16” x 6” bit and 2 3/4”–3” stainless steel Tapcon screws. Clean frames and grooves with Simple Green and a soft brush to remove salt and dirt.

Remove Old Screens and Splines Use a flathead screwdriver to pry out old splines, starting at a corner. Pull gently to avoid damaging grooves. Remove and discard old screens. Clean grooves thoroughly.

Rescreening the Roof

1. Measure Screen Size: Measure the width from upright to upright to select your screen roll size (e.g., 36” or 48”). Measure the beam length for the screen’s cut length, adding 2–3 inches for overlap. Cut one large piece for the roof using scissors or a utility knife.

2. Install Screen on Beams and Gutters: From the walkboard, lay the screen over the roof, aligning it with the beam and gutter. Insert spline into the beam and gutter grooves first using the screen roller’s convex wheel, keeping the screen taut. Pre-roll spline if needed for easier insertion.

3. Screen Purlins Individually: For the 2x2 purlins (cross-members), work panel by panel. Cut the screen in the middle of each 2x2, pull tight, and insert spline on all sides of the purlin to separate each roof panel square. Pull tightly while splining to avoid wrinkles.

4. Move Walkboard: Carefully climb down using the separate ladder, move the walkboard to the next section, and repeat, splining current panels while starting new ones. Continue until all roof panels are complete.

5. Close End Panels: Use a ladder on the outside to spline the final end panels, ensuring a tight fit.

Rescreening the Walls

1. Measure and Cut: Measure the wall’s length and height, adding 2–3 inches for overlap. Cut the screen to size.

2. Spline the Top First: Using a single ladder, secure about 1 foot of the top edge with spline, ensuring mesh squares are straight. Move along the top, inserting spline until the end, pulling the screen tight.

3. Spline the Uprights: Start at one upright, inserting spline down the entire side, keeping the screen taut. At the next upright, cut the screen exactly in the middle, pull tight, and insert spline. Repeat for all uprights.

4. Spline the Bottom: Pull the screen tight at the bottom, pre-rolling spline if needed, and insert spline across the base. Trim excess screen with a utility knife for a clean finish.

Final Inspection Check all panels for wrinkles, loose splines, or gaps. Gently press screens to ensure they’re taut. Adjust by removing and re-splining if needed.

Maintenance Tips

• Clean Screens: Wash every 6–12 months with Simple Green, a soft brush, and low-pressure hose (under 800 PSI). Clean 20x20 No-See-Um screens every 4–6 months.

• Check for Damage: Inspect annually for tears, patching small rips with a Phifer Screen Patch Kit ($5–$10).

• Maintain Fasteners: Rinse hurricane cables and test Tapcon screws every 6 months, replacing rusted ones with stainless steel.

• Storm Prep: Secure furniture and decor indoors before hurricanes, and trim trees to prevent debris damage.

Product Recommendations

• Cleaner: Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner ($8–$12).

• Repair Kit: Phifer Screen Patch Kit ($5–$10).

• Spline: Dura-Spline 0.175” ($0.15 per foot).

• Fasteners: Tapcon 3/16” x 2 3/4” Stainless Steel Screws ($0.50 each).

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Incorrect Spline Size: Test-fit spline to avoid loose screens.

• Overstretching: Pull taut but not strained to prevent tears.

• Unstable Walkboard: Ensure ladders are secure to avoid falls.

• Skipping Groove Cleaning: Dirt weakens spline grip.

Empower Your Outdoor Maintenance